Every so often, you run across a restaurant you just want to shout about to the world! (Well, if you're a food aficionado like me, anyway.) The Red Fish Grill is such a place.

Unique in every aspect, from location to menu, this beguiling little restaurant tucked away in Matheson Hammock Park, is one of the best seafood restaurants I have ever had the pleasure of dining at. It wasn't just the food (incredible!) or the service (impeccable!) or the atmosphere (inimitable!) but more a seamless combination of the three.

From the moment I walked into the place, I had the "I made the right move" feeling. Thank God, too. I needed a really outstanding restaurant for Part 2 of this article and I trusted my dining companion's judgment on this (she had eaten here a while back). I rarely eat at fish restaurants, simply because most of them disappoint me; they're either marginal or part of a haute cuisine menu that puts so much stuff on and around the fish, you don't even know what you're eating. This place was neither. It was simply outstanding.

A Great Atmosphere

Red Fish Grill sits on the beach at Biscayne Bay. There's a swimming area a stone's throw from the restaurant and an outdoor dining patio with palm trees that glisten at night with hundreds of tiny white lights. You can walk the beach after dinner or sit just outside and enjoy the view.

The coral rock dining room we ate in, was not only comfortable, but offered a wonderful view of the Bay. We found out our waiter's name was Walter Graham, and he was a native Floridian. (I actually met one!) He and all the other waiters had on great retro-looking Hawaiian shirts I later found out were sold in the lobby. (If you're a retro Hawaiian shirt fan, it'll be worth your trip to see these shirts!) Walter was attentive, efficient and I recommend you request him on your visit here.

Good Food

For appetizers, we decided on the pumpkin soup and shrimp serviche. The pumpkin soup was fresh, flavorful and just spicy enough. The serviche came out perfectly marinated and equally fresh. Surrounding my serviche, as a garnish, were delicious strands of flash fried sweet potatoes called boniato. I asked for extra!

The fish we ordered was excellent. My grouper with capers was served sautéed, with just enough seasoning to enhance its natural flavor. Moist and fresh, it came with boiled parslied potatoes and julienned vegetables. My friend had the tuna, which was equally as tasty and fresh. For dessert we shard an apple cobbler with vanilla ice cream. It tasted so homemade I expected "Grandma" to come out from the kitchen and ask, "So how is it?" (Note: There's always daily specials on the menu that your waiter will advise you of.)

If you only visit one new restaurant this year in the Miami area—make it this one. You'll love it.

9610 Old Cutler Road, Coral Gables, Fl. Tel.: 305/668-8788

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